SCULPTING A FACE USING HIGHLIGHTS AND LOW LIGHTS
There´s nothing more amazing in the world of makeup than when someone completely nails the makeup technique of sculpting a face. On the other hand, a perfectly sculpted face made by using highlights and lowlights doesn´t actually show as it is perfectly blended and harmonized with the original skin. There are several areas and different purposes for why one would use this technique, but there is a universal system to it that will improve on any facial structure and shape.
START WITH A BLANC CANVAS
To make the sculpted look as perfect as possible, you must always start with a flawless foundation application. It is also possible to do the shading and sculpting using different toned foundations, but it is easier and time saving to use powder products. After applying a perfect matching foundation to the whole of your face and down your throat, finish off with an illuminating powder to set the foundation and to create a light play over your face.
MAKE A FRAME
Start the sculpting process by applying a matt or illuminating powder, blush or sun-powder in a shade of brown. The tone should be about 1 tone darker than your own skin. A red toned product will make this technique come out as sunburned, and we don´t want that! The powder you choose should be places along the hairline of your forehead, down to under your cheekbones and along your jaw. If you look at yourself in the mirror, the movement that you should be making while applying this step is that of the number 3. By applying the powder under your jaw and fading it down your throat, it will make that lovely double chin disappear.
STRAIGHTEN THE NOSE
The magic behind this step is that it will make a crocked nose look straighter, a big nose look smaller and a “normal” nose look amazing. Use the same powder as before, but with a smaller brush. Be very careful with the amount of product you use- a little goes a long way. You are now going to make a new wall for your nose by using the beginning of your eyebrow to measure up the line you will apply from by your eye corner and down until right before your nose wing. To finish the step off, apply a shiny beige, pink or gold highlighter or eye shadow along the bridge of your nose. You will see the effect immediately. Eye makeup techniques.
HIGHLIGHT THE REST
All that is left now is to pull out the best features of the face which is most often on the raised spots such as under your eyebrow, over you lip along the cupids bow, over your cheek bones and in the middle of your forehead. Party make up tips.
DURING EVERY STEP, REMEMBER TO BLEND WELL AND LET THERE BE NO EDGES EXCEPT FOR THE INNER LINE OF THE NOSE CORRECTION.
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After working with models for Fashion Week and numerous photo shoots during the past 6 years, I´ve picked up a thing or two when it comes to Fashion and makeup models secrets to great skin and individual makeup.
The life of a fashion and makeup model can take its toll on the skin. Not only does it have to stand the agony of applying and removing tons of different makeup products during one day, but even worse is the stress factor that comes with constant travelling, time management during a shoot and not to mention the hectic backstage- life during fashion week. But still, as a makeup artist it is vital that a fashion or makeup models´ skin looks their best for any job, so how can they possibly make this happen? – And if the guiding lines the fashion and makeup models live by works, would they not do absolutely wonders for us mere mortal girls? Here are the BEST 5 TIPS I have picked up from several fashion and makeup models during my time working with them.
- ONLY WEAR MAKEUP WHEN ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY
When your skin is constantly exposed to heavy makeup and cleansing products, you really need to pick your battles when it comes to wearing makeup in private. But on the other side it is actually very refreshing to only wear makeup privately to those special occasions as the transformation will be bigger and you will feel more extraordinary in addition to letting your skin breath in the meantime. A great and classic fashion and makeup models trick is to only focus on one facial feature like just a red lip, just defined and darkened eyebrows or just smoky eyes.
- STICK TO YOUR CLEANSING AND MOISTURIZING ROUTINES
It´s the simplest thing to do, yet so many of skip the sacred morning and night cleansing + moisturizing routine. But I promise you, if you use a professional skin care branded cleanser, moisturizer and eye cream every morning and night along with an exfoliater once a week, your skin will always look it´s best.
- LISTEN TO YOUR BODY
Your body knows when it needs sleep, water and food so there is no use in fighting it as your body will fight you back. We must never forget that one of the primary purposes of the skin itself is to give us a signal if something is wrong internally i.e. your skin will look sick on the outside if it is not healthy on the inside. Go to sleep at a reasonable time and take an afternoon nap if needed, drink water throughout the day and eat when you´re hungry. It doesn´t get any clearer then that!
- YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT
It´s not rocket science to figure out that fashion and makeup models have to watch what they eat, but much like an athlete it´s all about awareness when it comes to your diet and what the different food groups will do to you. It is never ok to cut out eating. Doing so will actually stress your skin and hair out and turn them into a dry and discolored disaster, but to be careful with fried food and carbohydrates is a nutrition rule we all can benefit from.
- BEWARE OF CIGARETTES AND POLLUTION
The greatest enemy a fashion and makeup model has regarding their skin is definitely cigarettes and pollution. The fumes coming from a cigarette you smoke yourself or from someone sitting next to you will damage your skin- there is no question or doubt about that fact. If you smoke yourself it will firstly affect your lip and eye area with wrinkles, but it will also mess with your natural moisture level. Pollution from cities, clubbing and not to mention air planes can be prevented by using protection spray regularly. The best thing is to clean and moisturize your face immediately after returning home from a city walk or trip.
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It hasn’t been hard to spot that the biggest color trend of this season, both in fashion and in beauty are those of the maroon category i.e. browns. Luckily it’s not as boring as it might sound as the tones does vary from gold, taupe, bronze, camel beige and deep coffee tones. For some great reason, this season’s trend of late 60s and early 70s flare of women glamour clothes pared up with the colors in mention, really gives a lush, rich and extravagant look while still keeping it down to earth and innocent with the toned down color palette.
Fashion Makeup look # 4: “The innocent and the extravagant”
If there is one designer we can always count on to deliver sexy, sensual and strong women strutting confidently down the runway, it is definitely Roberto Cavalli. Even though his clothes demonstrated a slightly younger feel then usual and the loosely tossed hair did the same, the fashion makeup was 100 % grown up glamour. By all means, it’s a fashion makeup look that will suit most ages, but what it demonstrates is a woman who knows the tricks on how to play up an important feature with using very little; the eyes. The eyes are absolutely the key secret to this glamorous fashion makeup look and you don’t need much either! As long as you have eye shadows in the tones of coffee, taupe and strong gold pared up with a black eyeliner and a lush mascara, you’re all set! Apply the black eye liner along the whole of your eyelash line, preferably ending with a flick towards the ears at the outer edges. Keep the inner eye corners dazzling with gold, the rest of the lid soaked in taupe and in a feline shape, while the coffee color reinforces the intensity along the global, outer corners and under the eyes. Finish it all off with tons of black eyeliner on the inner eye rims and mascara. The skin needs to be super even, but still as natural as possible. This is best achieved by working with a stippling foundation brush and a water based foundation such as MACs Face + Body Foundation. Work the foundation up carefully and thinly until desired coverage is met. Finish up with a translucent setting powder and then a stroke of Wonder Powder from Makeup Store for a perfect illuminated face. The lips and eyebrows from this fashion makeup look can actually cope with most colors and shapes, so you don’t have to stick to the nude lips and ungroomed dark eyebrows if you don’t want to.
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If there is one thing other then the clothing we draw inspiration from when the Fashion weeks of the different corners of the world takes place, it is defiantly the fashion makeup looks of the runway. It´s important to interpret these fashion and beauty statements in the same way as we would with the clothing from the runway as it can often be a bit over the top. Everything isn´t meant to be directly transferred from the runway neither onto a body nor to a face, but it is the inspiration and the idea behind the look we must take with us to understand the hottest trends for each season.
The fashion shows that gained the most attention during fashion week back in February 2010 (showing design for fall/winter 2010/2011) was Givenchy, Michael Kors, Chloé, Roberto Cavalli and Diane von Furstenberg. During this series of 5 articles, we will show you the most important trades of the fashion makeup look in hand and teach you how to transfer any extreme fashion makeup look into a night on the town look.
Fashion Makeup look # 1: “Makeup is for everyone!”
Michael Kors called in the world renowned makeup up artist (or painter as many calls him) Dick Page. The look is undoubtedly a classic, but it has simple and easy tricks that will spice up an otherwise demure and innocent look. The clue is to keep everything as peachy-orange as possible according to your own skin tone (you don´t want to end up looking like a Christmas orange either). The skin must of course be flawless and luminous, and the lips should be effortlessly nude. Leave the brows a bit messy, but defined by color. The secret is in the eye makeup; the same peachy-orange used on the cheeks takes up most of the space of the eye lid to make any eye color pop, but at the outer edges both on the top and lower lid there is a metallic blue smoke effect which brings this delicate look into a sultry evening fashion makeup.
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